rebuilding a bass drum tom mount

[Chris23]

I posted about interest in a new set recently. Now I'm thinking of
drilling out my bass drum and two mounted toms and add a new bass drum
double mount, arms, and the hardware necessary to configure the toms
to be able to attach the new arms. I'll probably learn that opening
the holes is a bear. Thoughts on finding ALL the hardware? 3/4"? I
currently have
5/8"ths CB 700. One drum - 10" concert tom - was never mounted to
the Bass drum. Has an awkward stand.

Chris

[Sean Conolly]

Post by Chris23
I posted about interest in a new set recently. Now I'm thinking of
drilling out my bass drum and two mounted toms and add a new bass drum
double mount, arms, and the hardware necessary to configure the toms
to be able to attach the new arms. I'll probably learn that opening
the holes is a bear. Thoughts on finding ALL the hardware? 3/4"? I
currently have
5/8"ths CB 700. One drum - 10" concert tom - was never mounted to
the Bass drum. Has an awkward stand.

If I was going to change the mounts on the toms, I'd switch to RIMS mounts
so I wouldn't have to drill any holes.

You can get generic mounts for the toms and bass drum at JR's site:
http://amdrumparts.com/

John's a good egg and used to be a regular here back in the day.

Sean

[Steve Turner]

Post by Sean Conolly

Post by Chris23
I posted about interest in a new set recently. Now I'm thinking of
drilling out my bass drum and two mounted toms and add a new bass drum
double mount, arms, and the hardware necessary to configure the toms
to be able to attach the new arms. I'll probably learn that opening
the holes is a bear. Thoughts on finding ALL the hardware? 3/4"? I
currently have
5/8"ths CB 700. One drum - 10" concert tom - was never mounted to
the Bass drum. Has an awkward stand.

If I was going to change the mounts on the toms, I'd switch to RIMS mounts
so I wouldn't have to drill any holes.
http://amdrumparts.com/
John's a good egg and used to be a regular here back in the day.
Sean

Being an old fart with the same old old-fart drum set for the past 25+ years, I've never
owned a kit that had isolation mounts. I don't want to get into a religious war about that,
but one of the things that's been pointed out to me (by the proprietor of a popular local
drum shop who doesn't really think that isolation mounts do anything to help the sound) is
that the presence of those mounts can make it a big pain in the ass to put a regular 12"
(for example) drum into a regular 12" drum case (or bag). Thoughts? Solutions?

[-MIKE-]

Post by Steve Turner
Being an old fart with the same old old-fart drum set for the past 25+
years, I've never owned a kit that had isolation mounts. I don't want to
get into a religious war about that, but one of the things that's been
pointed out to me (by the proprietor of a popular local drum shop who
doesn't really think that isolation mounts do anything to help the
sound) is that the presence of those mounts can make it a big pain in
the ass to put a regular 12" (for example) drum into a regular 12" drum
case (or bag). Thoughts? Solutions?

My thought is that your proprietor is an old fart who doesn't like those
newfangled things getting in his way. :-) Like the guys over in our
other group who would rather use a plank sub-floor than plywood T&G or
rafters instead of trusses.

I have demonstrated the difference between iso and shell mounts on
dozens of kits. There is simply no debate on the matter, with a few
exceptions...

- Some really thick-@$$ drums, like old Sonor Sigs, can't tell the
difference, and are equally un-resonant with or without iso-mounts.
- Some people either can't tune, or really love that 70's, dead, Gadd tom
sound, which is equally un-resonant with or without iso-mounts.
- Some drum companies' "isolation" mounts.... don't. You can't tell the
difference between on or off the mount, because the mount isn't doing
what it's supposed to do.

As for the cases/bags... all you have to do is size up, one.
If *that's* the only thing keeping someone from getting the best sound
out of their drums, then they're probably not going to care about the
difference.

IE: the kit I played in TX... the guy had pre-muffled heads, plus gaff
tape, plus o-rings..... and rims mounts. :-)

[Sean Conolly]

Post by Steve Turner

Post by Sean Conolly

Post by Chris23
I posted about interest in a new set recently. Now I'm thinking of
drilling out my bass drum and two mounted toms and add a new bass drum
double mount, arms, and the hardware necessary to configure the toms
to be able to attach the new arms. I'll probably learn that opening
the holes is a bear. Thoughts on finding ALL the hardware? 3/4"? I
currently have
5/8"ths CB 700. One drum - 10" concert tom - was never mounted to
the Bass drum. Has an awkward stand.

If I was going to change the mounts on the toms, I'd switch to RIMS mounts
so I wouldn't have to drill any holes.
http://amdrumparts.com/
John's a good egg and used to be a regular here back in the day.
Sean

Being an old fart with the same old old-fart drum set for the past 25+
years, I've never owned a kit that had isolation mounts. I don't want to
get into a religious war about that, but one of the things that's been
pointed out to me (by the proprietor of a popular local drum shop who
doesn't really think that isolation mounts do anything to help the sound)
is that the presence of those mounts can make it a big pain in the ass to
put a regular 12" (for example) drum into a regular 12" drum case (or
bag). Thoughts? Solutions?

In this case using the iso mount is just a way to use a different mount
without drilling holes. I'm actually looking at this on my Yamaha kit - I'd
like to switch to Tama/DW style L-arms but there's no way I'm going to
modify a set of RCs.

As for the sonic value - I get all the tone and sustain I want without them.
I used them for a few years and finally decided that they didn't give me
enough improvement in sound to make it worth the trouble. I might have a
different opinion with a different set of drums, but there it is.

Sean

[-MIKE-]

Post by Sean Conolly
In this case using the iso mount is just a way to use a different mount
without drilling holes. I'm actually looking at this on my Yamaha kit - I'd
like to switch to Tama/DW style L-arms but there's no way I'm going to
modify a set of RCs.

I always preferred a tube (or hex-rod in Yamaha's case) over an L-rod,
because you get no lateral movement with the L-rod. With a horizontal
tube, you can get the stand "close enough" and make fine adjustments,
horizontally, with the mount.

With the L-arm, you end up nudging the entire stand.

[Sean Conolly]

Post by -MIKE-

Post by Sean Conolly
In this case using the iso mount is just a way to use a different mount
without drilling holes. I'm actually looking at this on my Yamaha kit - I'd
like to switch to Tama/DW style L-arms but there's no way I'm going to
modify a set of RCs.

I always preferred a tube (or hex-rod in Yamaha's case) over an L-rod,
because you get no lateral movement with the L-rod. With a horizontal
tube, you can get the stand "close enough" and make fine adjustments,
horizontally, with the mount.
With the L-arm, you end up nudging the entire stand.

True, but with the L-arm, you can take the drum off by pulling straight up.
With the Yamaha arms I have a situatuation where I can't take off the 10"
while the snare is in place, and I can't take off the 12" while the 10" is
in place. It doesn't sound like a big deal but I have a lot of stuff to set
up at every gig, and I've gotten really fussy about everything that slows
down the process*. I've decided that it's a LOT easier to move a stand a
half inch than adjusting a tom by the same distance.

On the other hand, I need to try out some of the shorter YESS arms and see
if they solve the 'interference fit" problem. As long as I can add / remove
the toms in whatever order I need at the moment, then I'll be happy.

Sean

*<rant on>
Yes I remember the days when you didn't have to set up / load out every
single night - when we wouldn't even touch a gig that was less than four
nights in a row. Those days are long gone it seems, and even though I stay
well booked I'm doing way more one-nighters than I'd like. Maybe it's anal,
but I'm counting every minute of setup/teardown time towards the total
aggravation factor.
<rant off>

[-MIKE-]

Post by Sean Conolly

Post by -MIKE-
With the L-arm, you end up nudging the entire stand.

True, but with the L-arm, you can take the drum off by pulling straight up.
With the Yamaha arms I have a situatuation where I can't take off the 10"
while the snare is in place, and I can't take off the 12" while the 10" is
in place. It doesn't sound like a big deal but I have a lot of stuff to set
up at every gig, and I've gotten really fussy about everything that slows
down the process*. I've decided that it's a LOT easier to move a stand a
half inch than adjusting a tom by the same distance.

I'm in totally agree with that.
That's why I think Sonor got it right (don't they always?)
by designing a tom mount that does both...
<http://www.massmusic.net/shop/largerimage.php?prod_id=19474>

Post by Sean Conolly
*<rant on>
Yes I remember the days when you didn't have to set up / load out every
single night - when we wouldn't even touch a gig that was less than four
nights in a row. Those days are long gone it seems, and even though I stay
well booked I'm doing way more one-nighters than I'd like. Maybe it's anal,
but I'm counting every minute of setup/teardown time towards the total
aggravation factor.
<rant off>

That's why I like theater gigs.

[Steve Turner]

Post by -MIKE-

Post by Sean Conolly

Post by -MIKE-
With the L-arm, you end up nudging the entire stand.

True, but with the L-arm, you can take the drum off by pulling straight up.
With the Yamaha arms I have a situatuation where I can't take off the 10"
while the snare is in place, and I can't take off the 12" while the 10" is
in place. It doesn't sound like a big deal but I have a lot of stuff to set
up at every gig, and I've gotten really fussy about everything that slows
down the process*. I've decided that it's a LOT easier to move a stand a
half inch than adjusting a tom by the same distance.

I'm in totally agree with that.
That's why I think Sonor got it right (don't they always?)
by designing a tom mount that does both...
<http://www.massmusic.net/shop/largerimage.php?prod_id=19474>

The Sonor guys recently came through Austin and had a "truckload" sale at one
of the local drum shops, and I bought one of those mounts at a nice price;
unfortunately mine is the "200" series in which the L-rod is captive in the
plastic ball rather than passing through the ball and being horizontally
adjustable, as in the 600 series that you referenced.

[-MIKE-]

Post by Steve Turner
The Sonor guys recently came through Austin and had a "truckload" sale
at one of the local drum shops, and I bought one of those mounts at a
nice price; unfortunately mine is the "200" series in which the L-rod is
captive in the plastic ball rather than passing through the ball and
being horizontally adjustable, as in the 600 series that you referenced.

Had it been last weekend, I would've had a few more bags to check. :-)